Friday, 28 May 2004

Visiting the Jewel of Kedah - Langkawi



                                                             
 It was an 8-hour drive to reach the Kuala Kedah jetty from home, about 450km +/-. That included breakfast of dim sum and white coffee in Ipoh and a couple of pee stops. Slowed down when we were near Ipoh to appreciate its beautiful limestone hills. Looked exactly as those in Halong Bay, Vietnam and picture perfect as those in postcards on Guilin, China  ( Have yet to visit and one of the must do's ). Another good reason to slow down was police speed traps, which were common in this area. The PLUS Highway has a speed limit of 110km/hour.


Along the Butterworth - Alor Setar stretch, we were treated with vistas of golden paddy fields ready for harvest. Known as the rice bowl of Malaysia, locals like us unfortunately took these sights for granted.

In Kuala Kedah, we found a school leasing out its premises as a giant car park. This was the logical choice to park the car for the next 4 days, as it was near the jetty. The salty smell of the sea hit immediately and the sun was in its element. Heat and smell entered our lungs. Took more than 1 hour by ferry to Kuah, the main town in Langkawi. Entertainment was the noisy but action packed Hindi movies screened on television sets in the central aisle of the ferry.

Upon arrival in Kuah town, we were assailed by car rental agents. Chose our national car, a Proton Saga Aeroback for RM$50/day as it was the low season. Kuah was a linear town and we drove past a few shopping centres on our way out. As we wanted to check into the hotel early, we did not stop at any. Drove around the island a bit and passed its famed marina. Looked good on that wet afternoon.

Pelangi Beach Resort & Spa ( promotion RM$120.00/room, 3rd night free! ) was superb for family holidays. Total cost was MYR$252.00, what a treat! The hotel was built on a generous land size of 35 acres, one of the biggest that I have been to. It was suitable for walks, cycling and two well landscaped swimming pools for everyone. The place was dotted with low rise wooden chalets which gave it a relaxing kampung ( village like ) feel. Definitely 5 star.

Were treated to the customary welcome drink of fruit punch in their custom designed mugs. Dumping our bags in our chalet, we scouted the area & enjoyed the beautiful tropical gardens, pools and water features. Unlike other hotels which tended  to mimic Balinese design, this place had the traditional Malay village setting in its feel.


The next day we checked out the Langkawi Cable Car which stretched from the Oriental Village to the top of Gunung Mat Cincang, about 2000 ft in height. The base of the cable car station was modern and filled with outlets selling souvenirs, tees and cafe. The ride from the base to its middle station was one of the steepest and seemed scary as the two supporting towers were far apart.


Cable car entrance
Cable car entrance
View as we headed up
Up we go higher and higher

The reaching top of the longest stretch
Station after the longest stretch
Between the hills
Connecting hill tops

Langkawi archipelago panorama
Langkawi archipelago panorama












Concluded the day with a hike up Telaga Tujuh Waterfalls which meant the "7 wells waterfall". It had an impressive drop-off of about 100m and can be fatal if being swept over. Atop the waterfall, we enjoyed the scenic view of  Mat Cincang nearby but you can't see the base of the waterfall. There were instances where curious visitors clambered over the edge for look and lost their lives when they slipped on the rocks. We were careful not go near the water's edge.
  

                                                                                                                             





Resident macaque monkeys here were ever ready to grab a bite of food from unsuspecting visitors. Therefore, we made sure no food was carried with us, walked confidently in a non threatening manner as a safeguard. That evening the macaques were rummaging through rubbish scattered around the area and we got through safely to our car.

                                                                                                                                     





Our hotel which was near Pantai Cenang, a happening place by Kedah standards. Restaurants, shopping and nightlife revolved around this part of the island. Bought some necessities like water, biscuits, milk etc for the kids and coffee for the night. We drove around and found a Chinese restaurant filled with guests and proceeded to patronise the place. Looked like it was a halal restaurant as we could see tourists and locals tucking into its fare. Suited our taste buds and inexpensive.
































We had only 2 breakfast buffet vouchers each morning and we did not want to break our budget. Therefore my wife and I rotated to take a child each on different mornings. The rest of the troop was treated to roti canai and teh tarik breakfast outside. The kids enjoyed it and we saved $$$. 

Mornings were spent at the swimming pool to keep an eye on the children. The swimming pools here were great. There were no boring rectangular pools at Pelangi. Instead, we were mesmerized by well designed and landscaped pools. Coconut trees, palms and green foliage were grown strategically to give rise to its true name, a beach resort.

Evenings were spent in walks around the resort. The resort was well thought out. The chalets and buildings blended well into the topography. Low rise design helped preserve the overall charm and ambiance. Kudos to the architect. There were many nook and corners to give this place a unique touch. Water features with natural growth of lilies and hyacinth attracted a plethora of insects and bird life to the area. We borrowed bicycles           ( $12.00 rental ) to reach the farthest part of the resort.


The weather can be unpredictable though. In one of our drives, we landed at the beach front of another resort which was bordering Thailand. The weather was hot and humid when we arrived. After a quick tour around the property, the weather turned for the worse. Strong winds blew and rain came in a gush. Was really glad we did not go for island hopping.


This trip was an eye-opener as the Langkawi that I knew in the late 1990s was more rustic. Could see that there were efforts to develop the island and the hotels sprung up like mushroom after the rain. 

Friday, 7 May 2004

Cats, Kolo Mee and Sarawak Laksa


This trip was the culmination of 3 aligned stars namely
- the children's first flight and was cheap at MYR$2,058.86 return for 7 pax
- first trip to Sarawak, 
- flight and stay for 3 nights at a good hotel, Hilton Kuching for MYR$294 per person.

 As the Cantonese would say " its a dead chicken - a real deal". However, I can't say the same about car rental in Kuching. At $160/day it was definitely much more expensive than say Langkawi at $50/day. The car was a moving tin box with air-conditioning at best. Glad the brake worked when we were there!


After checking into Hilton, we got our hotel sticker that enabled us to ride free on the Kuching City Tram. It ran on hourly cycle stopping at the Sarawak Museum, Satok Market and the heart of the city. You can get down, spend an hour or two at your place of interest and up again on designated spots. Highly recommended if you want to get a feel of the city for the first time.

Walked around the streets near our hotel and found a Tua Pek Kong Temple, some handicraft & souvenir shops to keep us occupied for the day. Souvenirs included the famous hand woven pua-kumbu, bamboo baskets, pottery and lots of tee shirts. Go for the medium priced tees for its quality and print.

Chinese Temple or 'Tokong' locally


















The handicraft outlets double as antique shops selling mat made of woven tree bark - a must buy if you don't like stepping on cold marble floors at home. Antique looking and heavy Dayak brass earrings can also be found. The reproduction can be found easily whereas the originals were kept at the back of the shop and shown upon request.  


















There were at least 2 roundabouts around Kuching city that displayed its iconic cats. One consist of a family of cats, the other 4 white cats waving to motorists. Its a must to complete this pussy show by visiting the Cats Museumwith 2000 exhibits. Located on top of Bukit Siol with great view of Kuching city in the distance.




















Saturday was a full day with visits to Ford Margherita,Satok Weekend Market or Pasar Minggu locally andSarawak Museum. We took the river taxi for 40 sen per head. Powered by hand on a small boat or sampan, the ride across Sarawak River from the waterfront took only minutes. The fort was not big and looked more like a prison than a defence fortress. Took the mandatory photo with our hotel in the background. Yeh! 




















The Satok Market was my cup of tea. Always liked markets, be it weekend, night, flea or wet. A typical Malaysian wet market, you can get anything here. Apart from vegetables, plants, fish, local kueh and apparel, you can find sago worms, a local delicacy and buah salak, an edible snake-skinned fruit. The pulp is white and tasted slightly sweet but not overpowering.
   
The Sarawak Museum was worth the visit especially if you are a freebie hunter. It had a pretty decent pre-historic collection of artifacts, stuffed Sarawak fauna and flora displays as well as war memorabilia. There were a good collection of ceramics authenticating Kuching as a trade centre since ancient times. 

















The last day was a drive to Damai Beach to visit theSarawak Cultural Village, about 35km away. It was to showcase Sarawak's rich diversity, its many tribes and people. Longhouses of the Bidayuhs, Iban, Melanau, Orang Ulu and a Chinese farm house can be found here. We took the opportunity to browse around a few of these 4 - 5 star Damai hotels and enjoyed the landscape & ambiance. 


  





















Food

1)  Kolo Mee - a variant of wan tan mee but more frugal in condiments. 
2) Sarawak Laksa - not as robust as curry laksa and have yet to acquire a taste for it.
3) Sea food was not extraordinary. We tried from the touristy restaurants atop the city car park  to family ones and even outlets near the market. Neighbouring Sabah has better offerings.
4) Must say that we had good buffet breakfasts provided by Hilton Hotel daily. The puffs were fresh and buttery, scrambled eggs hot and in house kolo mee and laksa in comfort.