Saturday, 3 December 2011

Cycled Hoa Lu and Rowed Tam Coc

Entry into the old capital of Hoa Lu
Beginning our ride from Hoa Lu













We booked a standard day package to Hoa Lu and Tam Coc. This trip, we shopped and got a better offer at USD$21/ person. 3 months earlier, we paid a princely sum of USD$31/ person. In all fairness, lunch was better with more dishes on the first trip. You get what you paid for - period.

After 3 hours on the road and one pee stop, we arrived at the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. After our guided tour, we booked a 1-hour bicycle ride to Tam Coc. There were 8 of us from the group that took the challenge, the rest continued to Tam Coc by coach. My youngest and me represented the family.

The view before us
Started slow and easy

The bicycle ride was casual and self paced. There were hardly any traffic on the main road and we absorbed ourselves with views of the surrounding vistas. Our guide rode pillion on a motorcycle and lead us to a nearby village. He gave us some basic direction through the village and left us to find our way to Tam Coc. 


Altar with etched rifles on its tablet
No paint and wide opened doors
We rode passed quaint little houses, doors wide opened, unpainted and left to the elements. That gave it a rustic and laid back feeling. Embedded on limestone walls were altars for worshipping or perhaps tombstones. There were two rifles etched on the tablet and hence more likely a memorial of their war dead. The one pictured below was more likely a grave with burnt joss sticks, flowers and incense.

We cycled passed  lily ponds with brackish waters. Not too sure whether fish was farmed here but it did not teemed with life when we rode passed. By this time I was last in the bicycle caravan and needed to catch up with the rest. 

Flat boat on lily pond
Grave site ?
My bicycle chain came off its cog a couple of times, causing me to be left further behind. Following the main trail, I finally reached the village of Van Lam. 



Getting our bearings
The final leg to Van Lam

Lunch was a simple "three course meal" namely fried spring rolls, prawns and cucumber salad. Drinks were not included in this package. Ordered my customary Vietnamese coffee for my caffeine boost. Needed that booster for my Ngo Dong River adventure.


Lunch spread
Waiting for the boat
Boats awaiting passengers
Rowers jockeying for business


Rowing Tam Coc aka 'Halong Bay on Land' began at Van Lam village. Tourists lined the steep pier to await their rides.There were more than a hundred boats moored nearby. These were 10 footer flat bedded boats that usually load four passengers with one or two rowers in tandem.


Harvesting snails
Gateway to Ngo Dong river
Snail gatherers everywhere
Ducks waiting for scraps
Snails must be a delicacy here


Idyllic village scenes greeted us at the beginning. The river was a source of life, providing water to wash, clean and look for food. Domesticated ducks swam about looking for scraps. The water was clear and we could see lush river weeds growing beneath the waters. A metal bridge overhead doubles as the gateway to Ngo Dong River, a lazy flowing river.
See a galloping horse?
Mushroom













We were supposed to pass 3 caves namely Hang Ca, Hang Hai and Hang Ba ( Cave One, Two and Tgree respectively ). The first cave was the longest and darkest. It was supposed to be 125m long and 2m high. Claustrophobia set in within the first 30m and was glad to see light at the end of the tunnel.

There were many other boats and expect bottle necks at the entry point of the caves. Exiting the third cave, we made our return leg of the journey. Here, we were encouraged to buy drinks or fruits from the floating boats which were in wait. 

Vendors in wait background
Fresh air!
Entry into the first cave
  


En Route back
The feminine side of the family

2 rower team, the daughter  will soon become a salesgirl



FACES   of   TAM    COC 



Strong women
Floating nursery

Working couple
Take it easy man

Impressive rower
Heave ho

Meandering back
All excited and ready to go













Leg rower
Mind your head


Romance in the air?





Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Y Linh Ho - Feast to the Eyes

Day 2 was a 12km hike. We had 3 villages to track to namely to 
- Ylinhho
- Lao Chai ( Not Lao Cai the border town where our train stopped ) and 
- Ta Van

Thankfully it was downhill, literally, most of the way. At the end of the trail our van will be waiting for us. However, the morning that greeted us was a wet one. Unperturbed and a plastic raincoat in hand we were ready for the day. The start of the walk was already spectacular with heavy mist nesting over the valley.




Our guide for the day was Tanh, a sweet looking 11yr old girl. Her English was not as good as Bow from the previous day and her marketing prowess was still 'evolving'. Nevertheless, I was quite sure that she will be fluent in English given a couple of years. After all, the girl was barely out from primary school.

At the jump-off point, a couple from China shared sweets with the locals which quickly attracted a lot of children. Not too sure it was good for the children's oral health but was certain that their intention was good. Made a mental note that I should also interact more with the locals to maximise travel experience.


The rain has made our valley walk more mystical with light fog hesitantly revealing the beauty below. Neat terraces of rice fields bore testament that the people took great pride in their work. I could sense a high degree of work discipline as there were hardly any farm equipment or machinery lying about carelessly. Could see a 'love-shaped' field or was it my imagination on overdrive? 
You be the judge.



Certain stretches of the walk were steep especially on slopes that were recently cleared. Our shoes were clearly ill equipped for the terrain. Even young surf boarding looking dudes  were slipping and sliding down the slope. Thankfully the Hmongs were ever in attendant. We weren't shy to ask for help. The person helping me was an old lady but her supporting grip was strong and much appreciated down the hill. 

I noticed the Hmongs were quite hardworking. Their hands seem ever to be weaving something or fashioning things out of the ordinary. Even when there was a 'traffic jam' along the route, they continue to work until the path before them has cleared.

 

Just before Lao Chai village, the valley opens up for all see. A cross section typically includes mountain, paddy fields, river, paddy fields and mountain. I could never get tired of the view. More so when you take time to observe the way the Hmongs interact with their land. There was a simple balance, the land yielding what was needed and the people took only what they need. Over development was just not in their vocabulary.
   
   
    


At Lao Chai, we made another token purchase and said our goodbyes. We gave them some gifts which we brought from home and the younger ones exchanged Facebook address. Wow! Our lunch was a simple fare, designed to reflect the lifestyle here. We had plain stir-fried chicken (no sauce) & cabbage and a fried egg each. Chicken meat was served on for special occasion. Therefore a typical meal here would comprised mainly vegetables. Unaccustomed, we asked for soy sauce but the nearest substitute they have was chillies, salt and a squeeze of lime.
 
 
The last leg of the journey was to Ta Van. This was a village of the Zay people, which were closely related to the Chinese. Their headgear was red and some tourist stop here for the homestay. The people here were as friendly but be forewarned that they were also keen to sell you their handicrafts. Again we enjoyed amazing views.