SLOW LORIS 38: December 2011

Entry into the old capital of Hoa Lu

Beginning our ride from Hoa Lu

We booked a standard day package to Hoa Lu and Tam Coc. This trip, we shopped and got a better offer at USD$21/ person. 3 months earlier, we paid a princely sum of USD$31/ person. In all fairness, lunch was better with more dishes on the first trip. You get what you paid for - period.

After 3 hours on the road and one pee stop, we arrived at the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. After our guided tour, we booked a 1-hour bicycle ride to Tam Coc. There were 8 of us from the group that took the challenge, the rest continued to Tam Coc by coach. My youngest and me represented the family.

The view before us

Started slow and easy

The bicycle ride was casual and self paced. There were hardly any traffic on the main road and we absorbed ourselves with views of the surrounding vistas. Our guide rode pillion on a motorcycle and lead us to a nearby village. He gave us some basic direction through the village and left us to find our way to Tam Coc.

Altar with etched rifles on its tablet

No paint and wide opened doors

We rode passed quaint little houses, doors wide opened, unpainted and left to the elements. That gave it a rustic and laid back feeling. Embedded on limestone walls were altars for worshipping or perhaps tombstones. There were two rifles etched on the tablet and hence more likely a memorial of their war dead. The one pictured below was more likely a grave with burnt joss sticks, flowers and incense.

We cycled passed lily ponds with brackish waters. Not too sure whether fish was farmed here but it did not teemed with life when we rode passed. By this time I was last in the bicycle caravan and needed to catch up with the rest.

Flat boat on lily pond

Grave site ?

My bicycle chain came off its cog a couple of times, causing me to be left further behind. Following the main trail, I finally reached the village of Van Lam.

Getting our bearings

The final leg to Van Lam

Lunch was a simple "three course meal" namely fried spring rolls, prawns and cucumber salad. Drinks were not included in this package. Ordered my customary Vietnamese coffee for my caffeine boost. Needed that booster for my Ngo Dong River adventure.

Lunch spread

Waiting for the boat

Boats awaiting passengers

Rowers jockeying for business

Rowing Tam Coc aka 'Halong Bay on Land' began at Van Lam village. Tourists lined the steep pier to await their rides.There were more than a hundred boats moored nearby. These were 10 footer flat bedded boats that usually load four passengers with one or two rowers in tandem.

Harvesting snails

Gateway to Ngo Dong river

Snail gatherers everywhere

Ducks waiting for scraps

Snails must be a delicacy here

Idyllic village scenes greeted us at the beginning. The river was a source of life, providing water to wash, clean and look for food. Domesticated ducks swam about looking for scraps. The water was clear and we could see lush river weeds growing beneath the waters. A metal bridge overhead doubles as the gateway to Ngo Dong River, a lazy flowing river.

See a galloping horse?

Mushroom

We were supposed to pass 3 caves namely Hang Ca, Hang Hai and Hang Ba ( Cave One, Two and Tgree respectively ). The first cave was the longest and darkest. It was supposed to be 125m long and 2m high. Claustrophobia set in within the first 30m and was glad to see light at the end of the tunnel.

There were many other boats and expect bottle necks at the entry point of the caves. Exiting the third cave, we made our return leg of the journey. Here, we were encouraged to buy drinks or fruits from the floating boats which were in wait.